Egypt – Cairo and the Pyramids

After getting back to Vienna, I quickly packed my bags, had one last Viennese dinner, zwiebelrostbraten — pan-fried steak with gravy and fried onions — and began the long, long trip home. As part of an effort to maximize my frequent flyer miles and to take advantage of an interesting itinerary back to the States, I actually flew back with several stops along the way. First was Tunis again, but just for a night, to catch a flight to my next stop, Egypt.

Though I didn’t have a long time in Egypt, I expected that two sightseeing days would be enough to see the top sites in Cairo, namely the three pyramid sites, the Egyptian Museum and city center, the Citadel and some other buildings. Obviously, I got nothing more than a metaphorical quick glance, and it was quite impressive. But it was also somewhat depressing as well. I focused on the three pyramid sites, in part because I wanted to get a little away from the city, and also figured that the extra sites would be less crowded. I shouldn’t have bothered. The city itself felt devoid of tourists – heck, the hotel staff was stunned when I said I was a tourist, as there appeared to be almost none anywhere.

First was Saqqara and the Step Pyramid of Djoser. There was one other car at the site, with two Dutch tourists. Made for some nice, unfettered vistas.

Next was Dahshur, with the Red and Step Pyramids. This was equally desolate. I should note that I was there on the first full day of Ramadan, so the sellers and camel handlers and guides were also trying to adjust to the heat and the restrictions on food and water. Everyone just looked spent.

One word of advice if you do go — don’t bother going inside a pyramid! You basically walk about a third of the way up and then head down a narrow tunnel. I wended my way down a small shaft maybe three feet high, dropping at almost a 45 degree angle. Halfway down the lights went out. It was also at that moment that I remembered that another friend had visited Egypt and gave me only one piece of advice — “Don’t bother going into the pyramid”. When you do get to the bottom, there isn’t anything to see other than an empty vaulted room. And the climb back is deadly for your legs. Go see the pyramids, but only from the outside.

The principal site at Giza was also a breeze, as there were only a few day-tripping busses from Hurghada filled with French and Russian tourists. The pyramids themselves are impressive, though context is difficult to discern. There is a golf course across from the Giza site and the city itself continues to encroach. But the Sphinx is cool. I’m glad I took the time and went further south to see the other pyramids near Cairo. Since I imagine not many of you will be getting on planes to Cairo anytime soon, I should also admit that it had never been very high on my list. I always said, “the pyramids aren’t going anywhere, what’s the rush?”. Well, I don’t believe they are in any danger, but given the uncertain situation in Egypt, I thought it best to go now and check it off my list. I’m glad I did, and want to return to do the Nile, Luxor, and Alexandria.

Cairo itself is a grand, bustling, energetic city, truly the capital of the Arab world. The Nile defines life in Egypt, and certainly is the center of Cairo. Tahrir Square and the Egyptian Museum are steps away. Give yourself lots of time at the museum — and the special collection of King Tut artifacts is exquisite (and thankfully air conditioned).